Deborah Turbeville (USA, 1932-2013) was a fashion
photographer who, along with Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton, pioneered the
transition of fashion's clean, well-lit character into a rougher, looser, more
artistic, and avant garde style. Contrasting the urban eroticism of Bourdin and
Newton, however, Turbeville achieved this with mysterious, dreamlike, and
delicate scenes.
While we can recognize her work by the grain,
blurring, and understated tones, I think Turbeville's most significant artistic
contribution is her rejection of the male gaze - often supplanting it with
something more compelling, experimental, and emotionally raw.
Turbeville was fixated on her own complex
relationship with femininity, the art and fashion worlds (often apart,
particularly prior to her influence), her insecure yet genuine rapport with the
models, and her art's moody, broken quality. "The idea of disintegration
is really the core of my work. I destroy the image after I’ve made it,
obliterate it a little so you never have it completely there."
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